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My messages from Avian Health UNEDITED.
In presenting these pre-posted messages, I hope to share
with the readers of this site a glimpse of the helpful
information I have shared with the very people who have
created the need for the attorney letter which is also
found in these pages.
Any admonishments to others for giving advice to bird
breeders were the result of some fundamental ideas:
1) Though we may share our personal experiences, we do
not have the right to practice veterinary medicine
without a license.
2) "First, do no harm." In using nutritional
supplements, vitamins, herbal treatments, alternative
methods for your own birds, you should be well informed
about the product being used and contraindications. If
you are breeding birds, you can't wait until it is too
late to get information about and equipment for hatching
your eggs or feeding your babies.
3) "Give credit where credit is due." Aviculturists
should show professional courtesy.
4) Keep the law and stay honest. Twisting the facts is
telling a lie.
5) Personal confidences and sharing should be guarded by
both parties.
6) It is good to be proud of your personal
accomplishments, and to be happy.
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avianhealth
--- In avianhealth@y..., Cherane@xxx.xxx wrote:
In a message dated 5/7/99 7:32:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Parrotnutz@a... writes:
> I am glad to finally
> "meet" you.
>
> Adriane
>
I thank you! It is nice to be here with you and your kind words have
made me
feel most welcomed..
Cherane
--- End forwarded message ---
--- In avianhealth@y..., Cherane@xxx.xxx wrote:
In a message dated 8/3/99 5:18:58 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
kgkat@e...
writes:
>
> Could you post the URL here? I just joined the list and don't
know how to
> get to where it's posted now.
> Kathy of KG Kat Aviary
> Chesapeake, Va.
> http://members.tripod.com/~KGKAT/Aviary.html
> Authorized Hagen Food & Supply Distributor
> http://members.tripod.com/~KGKAT/Hagen
> Director
> Bird Clubs of America
> Peachface & Masked Lovebird Breeding Partnerships
> http://members.tripod.com/~KGKAT/partnership
>
There are several there for you to read ..including my own
hyacinthine Macaws
web site...:)
go to: www.onelist.com
go to: login with your email addy and password on the left
go to: member center
double click on *avianhealth
go to: bookmark
there you'l find many papers taken from proceedings writen by Dr.
Ritchie
given at conventions including the international avian veterinarian
convention
Cherane
--- End forwarded message ---
Message 2210 of 12070 | Previous | Next [ Up Thread ]
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Message Index
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Msg #
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From: Cherane@a...
Date: Sat Jul 31, 1999 9:23 am
Subject: Re: Baytril tablets
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In a message dated 7/31/99 8:31:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
padfan1@t... writes:
>
> From: "J. Michael Reynolds" <padfan1@t...>
>
> oooooo.... I was right?... < :( Does that mean I can take off the
> Dunce Cap now?... Cat
that's all right with me...bet cha look cute with it any way. I have you
pictured with red hair and a ribbon.
Cherane
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--- In avianhealth@y..., Cherane@xxx.xxx wrote:
In a message dated 7/31/99 1:14:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
avian@s...
writes:
>
> I missed those book marks ... Can I have them again???
>
> Sibylle Faye
> Avian Web
go to the *message center* of onelist by putting in your name and
password.
you'll find all the list your on with clicking on avainhealth this
will take
you to bookmarks wither I put all the list on PDD and other diseases.
Cherane
--- End forwarded message ---\
From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Sat Jul 31, 1999 8:17 am
Subject: Re: Baytril tablets
In a message dated 7/31/99 7:42:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
padfan1@t... writes:
>
> From: "J. Michael Reynolds" <padfan1@t...>
>
> Just a wild guess here, but I would think that they are from different
> drug manufacturers. Vets don't always get thier meds from one
> source... Cat
Hi Cat, good guess.
I got some very good info about this from another list. I'm requesting that
I might post their message here.
Thank you and your right on target.
Cherane
Btw, I put some bookmarks on this list in the message center. They are not
my personal links or web sights. They are papers from Dr. Ritchie on PDD.
One bookmark is on Experimental transmission of PDD. I found this to be very
rich with info. Also there are colored pictures that of the lesions of PDD
organs.
Cherane
From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Fri Jul 30, 1999 10:25 pm
Subject: Baytril tablets
Does anyone know the difference between the brown and purple tablet ?
thank you,
Cherane
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Replies
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Author
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Date
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2189
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Re: Baytril tablets
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Susanne Russo
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Fri 7/30/1999
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2203
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Re: Baytril tablets
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J. Michael Reynolds
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Sat 7/31/1999
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2205
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Re: Baytril tablets
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Cherane@xxx.xxx
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Sat 7/31/1999
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2208
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Re: Baytril tablets
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J. Michael Reynolds
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Sat 7/31/1999
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2210
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Re: Baytril tablets
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Cherane@a...
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Sat 7/31/1999
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2218
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Re: Baytril tablets
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J. Michael Reynolds
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Sat 7/31/1999
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--- In avianhealth@y..., Cherane@xxx.xxx wrote:
In a message dated 7/31/99 7:42:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
padfan1@t... writes:
>
> From: "J. Michael Reynolds" <padfan1@t...>
>
> Just a wild guess here, but I would think that they are from
different
> drug manufacturers. Vets don't always get thier meds from one
> source... Cat
Hi Cat, good guess.
I got some very good info about this from another list. I'm
requesting that
I might post their message here.
Thank you and your right on target.
Cherane
Btw, I put some bookmarks on this list in the message center. They
are not
my personal links or web sights. They are papers from Dr. Ritchie on
PDD.
One bookmark is on Experimental transmission of PDD. I found this to
be very
rich with info. Also there are colored pictures that of the lesions
of PDD
organs.
Cherane
--- End forwarded message ---
--- In avianhealth@y...,
erane@a... wrote:
> Btw, I put some bookmarks on this list in the message center. They
are not
> my personal links or web sights. They are papers from Dr. Ritchie
on PDD.
> One bookmark is on Experimental transmission of PDD. I found this
to be very
> rich with info. Also there are colored pictures that of the
lesions of PDD
> organs.
>
> Cherane
>
CBacon <CBacon@m...wrote:
Hi Cherane,
The new bookmark with the article picturing the lesions, etc. is
absolutely wonderful and the most up to date I've read. YOu are to
be commended for bringing this article to thelist and to our
attention.
Thank you,
Constance
--- End forwarded message ---
From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Wed Aug 4, 1999 4:17 pm
Subject: Re: Incubating Hyacinth Eggs
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In a message dated 8/4/99 2:09:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, Rye590@a...
writes:
> 6% of their total egg weight loss, however, they are still too wet for them
> to hatch. I have put canisters in the bottom of the incubator to help
bring
> down the humidity, (the same canisters that people put in gun cabinents),
but
> I can only get the humidity down to 39% if I am lucky. I figured that I
need
> to lose at least 17% to get them to hatch. I am seeking anyone with any
> information as to getting them to lose more weight. I know I can sand the
> end of the egg, but I have never done that before and I would b
Donna,
A couple of questions:
What else do you have in your incubating room? Carpet, drapes or any cloth
material? How large is your room? Do you have fertile eggs now? How old
are they if you do?
I have room temp set at 79 degrees, with no cloth, carpet or any drapes to
hold moisture.
I might consider two things to do at this time a dehumidifier set up...(watch
your temp with the one that comes with Grumbac) across the room and I also
have an environcare air cleaner.
Those gentle moves should help get that down one percent...the other thing is
my temp is set at directly 99.3 with turning every two and half
hours.
I did loose two babies with pulling out the tray and NOT getting it set back
in the arm...thus no turning .....didn't find it till babies were dead at 14
days into incubation.
I also lost one hyacinthine baby in the egg with temp at 99.5 so from now on
I watch very careful through the different seasons as the temp sets
differently. I'm one block off ocean. I also changed the lock on my door of
the incubator as the humidity seeped into the incubator. Changing that
handle was one of the most important things I did to that incubator.
If chemicals are to be used...I use damp rid one tablespoon set at the bottom
with a pin hole in the air cell at 17 days old.
IF, you do a pin hole....sometimes I've had to assist and other times I do
not.
I need for you to talk to me about your hatching procedures? What do you do
when you are ready to hatch? At what time do you move your babies to the
hatcher, what humidity do you keep them in the hatcher and what temp?
don't worry you'll get the next baby out....:)
Cherane
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From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Wed Aug 4, 1999 8:37 pm
Subject: Re: nightmare/more info!!!
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In a message dated 8/4/99 8:14:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
srtiels@f... writes:
>
> Lactulose is a syrup...and I don't know what's in it.
This is an undigested sugar that attaches itself to toxins and eliminates
them out through the intestinal tract.
My heart goes out to you..please be sure you get plenty of rest and eat well
through your grief and loss.
hug's
Cherane
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From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Thu Aug 5, 1999 7:49 am
Subject: Re: Tiels and smaller birds need homes
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Melissa
Please excuse me if this is not appropriate, however when it comes to birds
and losses I want to give a very fast solution to the emptiness of a loss one.
Many feather heads are waiting for love from those that have a loss and I
understand that this group are looking for homes for smaller birds.
Not that any bird can make up for what you have gone through, just to let you
know those empty cages could have a rescued bird that is looking for a home.
I found this somewhere and made note:
Mikaboo Cockatiel rescue in San Francisco
has over 50 birds (tiels, LBs and budgies) that are in need of permanent
homes.
Might someone here know how to contact if anyone is interested?
Holisticbird@o...
MEMBERS WEB PAGE
~globirdy/contents.htm"http://members.tripod.com/~globirdy/contents.htm
Cherane Pefley
Certified Avian Specialist
Vero Beach, FL
Phone: 561-569-2206
Certified by the Model Avicultural Program (MAP)
http://www.calgaryparrotclub.com/Effects/map.htm
Member of (AFA) American Federation of Aviculture
http://www.upatsix.com/afa
Visit to see the proven young pair of Hyacinthine Macaws
and their first offspring:
~cherane/hyacinthbaby.html"Http://members.tripod.com/~cherane/hyacinthbaby.html
All Images: birds/animals from my Aviary
© Cherane Pefley
Hatching from egg to 13 weeks:
Hyacinthine Macaw Baby Photo Album
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=15796&a=80035
From: Cherane@a...
Date: Thu Aug 5, 1999 9:06 am
Subject: Re: Incubating Hyacinth Eggs
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In a message dated 8/5/99 8:31:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Rye590@a...
writes:
> Thanks for letting me pick your minds and any suggestions you may have for
me.
> I hope I answered all of your questions. If not let me know. Thanks
again
> for all of your help. : )
> Donna
Yes, you did..I would knock the temp down to 79 in your room. This one
degree will make a world of difference in baby hatching.
The other thing that caught my attention is the "couple of degrees lower then
incubation temp" you responded to my question "what temp are you doing the
hatching."
I make sure I'm at 85.5 with my rh at 50 to sometimes 90 . My principal here
is as taken from Rick Jordan's book "when dry treat wet, when wet treat dry"
I have had time when I really knocked the rh down in my hatcher with the pin
hole only to get rid of the moisture in the egg. I want to deal with a
weight loss of 18 to 20% not 17 for the hyacinthine Macaw. However, this is
my preference!
I happen to pin hole just about all my hyacinthine eggs around 36 hours after
INTERNAL pip and keep my rh in hatcher around sixty till a couple of hours
due to hatch....and I determine this by this procedure.
I have a closet just for this...I have a micro mini light the lens is the
size of a dime, (this is important that its a mini light that focuses as a
large policeman's light) This light will not heat the inside of the egg...or
baby and be sure to put FRESH batteries in it before this procedure.
I take the baby in the egg..to this closet and with sterile hands and the tip
of this light I look for veins or supply of blood given to the baby. If, I
see back into the hatcher....and IF I think I need to open this baby, never
do I do this unless I do this procedure. Then.....
If, I do not see any veins, I will go up the hatcher to 90 or higher..and the
baby will come right out usually within two to four hours. If not, the veins
are gone, I start to peel very carefully and usually baby thrust out as a
jack in the box.
As far as I can see, the hatcher with the degree of tem set down two degrees
can cause a problem with the lower rh both might be considered an environment
to not develop the chick and take care of the wetness in the egg.
Donna, I lost about three baby Hyacinthines in the eggs exactly as you with
rh problems. Now, I do not put any damp rid nor do I have plastic as I did
that as well...I just have the air-condition set to adjust my rh and I use
the mercury temp that came with the Grumbac. Plus I count on my dehumidifier
and that air cleaner does help as well.
:) My baby's system in the egg I watched beating this morning. I have
another hyacinthine on the way.
IF I missed anything please let me know. I would rather deal with a dry egg
any day.
Another thing I have done with Moluccans eggs….store the egg a couple of days
with turning it five times a day in an air conditioned room. Of course,
without anydrafts. The air cell develops and looses a little weight before I
set it in the incubator. I have never done this with a hyacinthine egg.
Cherane
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From: Cherane@a...
Date: Thu Aug 5, 1999 10:18 am
Subject: Re: Incubating Hyacinth Eggs
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In a message dated 8/5/99 9:24:54 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Rye590@a...
writes:
> ust a quick question for you.....you had stated you put "damp rid" at
> the bottom. I am not familiar with damp rid. I believe you said 1
> tablespoon set at the bottom with a pin hole. Could you elaborate on
this?
>
> Thanks so much....
> Donna
>
Donna, From what I see with your writing of your hatching procedure and the
weight of the egg now you have you don't need this stuff. Damp Rid can be
bought at any store to get rid of moisture in closets.
If by day fourteen I start to see a lack of moisture loss or weight loss to
my liking...I will make one (1) hole for weight loss only, I would NEVER do
this for any other reason and with this, I would put damp rid at the bottom
of my Grumbac on a flat dish to pull moisture to it out of the Grumbac.
Again, from what you wrote me, lowering your temp in your room to one degree
for each point of loss will do it..in other words put your temp down to 78
degrees...this will soak up the moisture in your room.
No need to mess with environment inside....make it correct in the outside
environment.
My steps to correct is as following:
first...I adjust relative humidity in my house by setting airconditioner
colder
or after I have done above to no avail
second....adjust room air-condition
or after I have done above to no avail
last .......adjust incubator
Or after I have done above to no avail
very last.....adjust egg by means as pin in the air cell.
Or after I have done above...all of it
I check and recheck the environment of the whole area that my incubator is in
first! You'd be surprised (at least I was :) ) what the adjustment of a
degree or two of an air-condition house, room or incubator can do. I would
never attempt to incubate in the environment of 80 degree room, house and
expect to get 17% weight loss.
My personal opinion after incubating successfully very few hyacinthine
Macaws..maybe nine alive and healthy babies is that I need at the very least
18% weight loss for a hyacinthine and if I could get it up to 20% I would be
happier.
Maybe there might be someone here on the list that can help with input
regarding this as I know it must be very difficult for you.
Cherane
From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Thu Aug 5, 1999 6:21 pm
Subject: Re: Incubating Hyacinth Eggs
In a message dated 8/5/99 1:19:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, kaos@v...
writes:
>
> From: "Keri" <kaos@v...>
>
> The baby will lay there in wait for about 12 to 24 hours after Drawdown (I
> do not move my baby to the hatcher at this time as some breeders call this
> internal pip...I do not
>
> Ok, I'm super confused. I'm really not this slow I promise :-)
>
> I just want to make sure I understand what I'm reading....
>
> An "internal pip" is where the baby is still in the egg, and is almost
ready
> to come out...but they move to where the air sac is? I'm taking a risk by
> assuming, this has to do with lung development?
the piping of the membrane between air sak and liquid == internal
An "external pip" is where the baby actually hatches out and goes thorught
> the process of fighting it's way out of the egg?
first pip of the outer shell ====external
> And drawdown is where they are breating on their own in the air pocket
prior
> to hatching?
moving in liquid towards air cell === drawdown......this is where the baby
will take up to 36 hours to do the 'internal pip' the baby will stay in the
liquid and not breathe yet till the internal pip.
>
> I'm sorry, I'm really confused :-)
>
> Thank you for helping! It is much appreciated! Eventually I would like to
> breed, but have MUCH to learn first!
>
> Keri
take time...no problem I'm sure I'm not as articulate as most in making it
easier for you.
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From: Cherane@a...
Date: Thu Aug 5, 1999 12:54 pm
Subject: Re: Incubating Hyacinth Eggs
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In a message dated 8/5/99 11:58:47 AM Eastern Daylight Time, kaos@v...
writes:
>
> From: "Keri" <kaos@v...>
>
> "INTERNAL pip"
>
Here is a job well done by a breeder to show you what happens with the
development of a baby in the egg shell.
Usually if all has gone well through incubation procedures, the forth day
from due hatch date, the baby starts to move toward the air cell end of the
egg. As this happens the air cell will come down toward the side of the egg.
The baby will lay there in wait for about 12 to 24 hours after Drawdown (I
do not move my baby to the hatcher at this time as some breeders call this
internal pip...I do not) to do an INTERNAL PIP. One day after starting
drawdown, the baby will punch through the inner membrane that leads to the
air cell, this is INTERNAL PIP.
The baby will wait silently and I do not disturb after I move this baby to
the hatcher I leave alone till I see an EXTERNAL pip. Then I will examine it
to give me an idea of what I'm having to do. I have found with the
hyacinthine baby, that even though I may have had a pin hole for weight
loss...this baby will still do an EXTERNAL pip.
It can take many hours after the external pip before hatching...I never wait
beyond fifty (50) hours AFTER INTERNAL PIP to make a pin hole for the baby to
breathe if the baby has not made an EXTERNAL PIP.
Confused yet? :)
<A HREF="http://www.tcaviary.com/eggs.htm"> Eggs</A>
Cherane
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From: Cherane@xxx.xxx
Date: Fri Aug 6, 1999 7:49 am
Subject: Re: Re: OT/Prayer, sigh of relief...
In a message dated 8/6/99 7:44:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time, padfan1@t...
writes:
>
>
> Everyone who sent prayers and "good vibes" out for my friend
> Betty, THANK YOU! She did show up to work today.
>
Now is the time for thanksgiving and celebration...
Cherane
This site was designed and built by: Cherane Pefley Copyright © 2001. All rights reserved
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